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ANUJA KHUSHU
Nestled in the serene village of Tulmulla, in the Ganderbal district of Kashmir, about 25 kilometres from Srinagar, the shrine of Mata Kheer Bhawani has for centuries held an unshakable place in the hearts of Kashmiri devotees. Beneath the shade of towering chinar trees, the sacred spring ripples gently, encircling the sanctum of a goddess whom many believe watches over the land and its people with divine foresight.
Dedicated to Goddess Kheer Bhawani, also known as Maharagyna Devi, the shrine is not just a spiritual centre—it is a living symbol of mystical faith, prophecy, and cultural identity. Known for its spring that changes colour and for the festival that brings home thousands each year, the temple is a rare site where devotion meets the inexplicable.
The Sacred Story
The origins of the shrine are preserved in the Bhrangeesh Samhita, a little-known but significant Kashmiri scripture. It tells of Rishi Bhringesh, an ancient seer who meditated in the forested lands of Tulmulla. According to the text, the goddess revealed herself to him in a vision, emerging from a lotus at the site of the spring. She commanded him to offer kheer—a simple dish of rice and milk—as an act of pure devotion. Thus was born Kheer Bhawani, a name that continues to define the goddess and her worship to this day.
Even today, bowls filled with freshly cooked kheer are placed near the spring, a tradition that connects modern devotees to an ancient lineage of faith.
Further elaboration on the goddess’s significance is found in the Ragniya Mahatmya and, more evocatively, in the Shri Shri Maharagni Pradurbhava, a devotional scripture that delves deeper into the spiritual essence of the goddess. While lesser known outside Kashmir, the Pradurbhava is central to the sacred tradition of Tulmulla. It describes the goddess as Parashakti—the primordial feminine force—and recounts how she chose Tulmulla not for its terrain, but for its spiritual resonance.
According to the text, the sacred spring—referred to as Amrit Kund—is a living manifestation of her presence, a divine yantra in fluid form. The changing colours of its waters are not natural anomalies, but spiritual indicators—reflections of the goddess’s mood and messages to her devotees. The scripture calls for worship that is inward, humble, and sincere. Kheer, offered in brass or silver vessels, remains the most sanctified form of offering, symbolising simplicity and surrender.
The Pradurbhava also speaks of a sacred yantra associated with the goddess—a lotus with eight petals encircling a bindu, representing the centre of cosmic balance. The recitation of her bija mantra—Om Hreem Shri Ragyaayai Namah—is said to invite her grace, while meditation on her image establishes a deep, protective connection between devotee and deity.
Though the goddess resides eternally at Tulmulla, the text insists she is not bound by land. She travels with her devotees in exile, but it is Tulmulla that remains her moolsthan—her original abode and the heart of her power.
The significance of the Kheer Bhawani shrine is also chronicled in historical texts. Kalhana’s Rajatarangini, a 12th-century chronicle of Kashmir, mentions the sacred spring of Tulmulla, noting its location in a marshy area that was once engulfed by floods thousands of years ago, submerging both the spring and the temple.
The shrine has attracted numerous luminaries over the centuries. Swami Vivekananda visited the temple in 1890, and Swami Rama Tirtha also paid his respects there. Their visits underscore the shrine’s spiritual prominence and its role as a beacon of faith.
From Lanka to Kashmir
Another legend ties the goddess to the ancient kingdom of Lanka, where Ravana, though known as a demon king, was a devout worshipper of Mata Ragnya Devi. As the tale goes, the goddess grew displeased with his descent into tyranny and chose to abandon Lanka. She instructed Lord Hanuman to carry her image to a land more suitable for her worship. That land, the Devi declared, would be found in the northern valleys.
Lord Hanuman is said to have brought her murti or image to Kashmir, placing it in Tulmulla—a place then full of marshes and serpentine streams. This divine relocation marks the goddess’s journey from the heart of the south to the soul of the Himalayas.
The Naga Presence
Local Kashmiri folklore speaks of 360 Nagas—celestial serpents—residing in the spring. These mythical beings are said to guard the shrine and are believed to manifest themselves during the annual cleaning of the pond. Their presence, though invisible to most, adds another layer of mystery and reverence to the sacred site.
The Colours of Omens
At the centre of the shrine is the oval-shaped spring, its calm waters flanked by stone embankments. The most mystifying aspect of the shrine, and one that draws widespread attention, is the spring’s ability to change colour. This phenomenon has been observed for generations and is recorded in both oral traditions and texts like the Bhrangeesh Samhita.
The colour shifts are interpreted as divine signals:
• White or Light Pink: A sign of divine grace, peace, and prosperity. It suggests the goddess is content, and good times lie ahead.
• Green: Associated with fertility and harmony. It is seen as a blessing for farmers and a sign of agricultural abundance.
• Red: A warning. Red water is considered an omen of unrest or coming hardship—be it political strife, natural disaster, or societal upheaval.
• Black: The rarest and most feared. It is believed to signify great distress or impending tragedy. In such times, devotees gather for mass prayers and fasting.
In the early 1990s, when Kashmiri Pandit’s were forced to leave their exodus homeland in Kashmir by Islamic jehadis, many recall that the water turned a deep shade of red. “The Devi had warned us,” says Sunita, a pilgrim from Jammu, who had visited Shrine this year on Jyestha Asthami. “But not everyone understood what she was trying to say.”
While geologists might cite minerals, sediment or algae as possible reasons, the devotees or believers of Mata do not seek explanations. “The goddess does not need language,” says Archna, who returns each year from Delhi. “When she wants to speak, the water answers.”
A Festival of Return
Every year, on Jyeshtha Ashtami, the full moon day of May or June, thousands return to the shrine for Mela Kheer Bhawani. It’s a spiritual reunion—both with the goddess and with a homeland that, for many, has become memory.
The temple complex becomes a living village for a few days. Tents line the pathways. Langars serve round-the-clock meals. Devotional songs fill the air. Families meet after years apart. It is a momentary reclaiming of space, history, and identity.
And at the centre of it all is the kheer—offered in earthen pots, stirred over open flames, and placed near the spring with folded hands and whispered prayers. The same offering once made by Rishi Bhringesh, it continues to link the present with the distant past.
The Goddess in Exile
For the thousands of displaced Kashmiri Pandits, Mata Kheer Bhawani is both a deity (Kul Devi) and a symbol of continuity. Across Jammu, Delhi, UP and even the United States, small replicas of the shrine stand adorned with marigold garlands. The goddess travels with her people, they say. But for many, Tulmulla remains her true abode.
“She waits for us,” says Gunwati, an elderly woman walking barefoot around the temple. Her eyes glisten as she gazes at the spring. “And we will always return.”
SIDEBAR:
The Goddess and Her Spring
Location: Tulmulla, Ganderbal district, Jammu & Kashmir
Primary Deity: Maharagya Devi / Kheer Bhawani
Sacred Offering: Kheer (rice pudding)
Sacred Text: Bhrangeesh Samhita
Known For: Spring that changes color—interpreted as divine omens
Festival: Mela Kheer Bhawani (Jyeshtha Ashtami)
Design Suggestions:
Headline: Kheer Bhawani: Where the Goddess Speaks in Colours….(in colour)
BLURB: In the quiet village of Tulmulla, beneath the rustling chinars, a sacred spring ripples with colours—and with prophecy. For devotees of Mata Kheer Bhawani, this is not just a temple. It is a place where history, legend, and longing converge.
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Opening paragraph with a drop cap:
Use a drop cap for the first letter to give it a classic magazine start
Sidebar 1:
Who is Maharagya Devi?
Maharagya Devi—also known as Kheer Bhawani or Ragnya Bhagwati—is considered an embodiment of Parashakti, the universal feminine energy. In the scripture Shri Shri Maharagni Pradurbhava, she is described as both nurturing and prophetic. The sacred spring of Tulmulla, known as Amrit Kund, is seen as a living yantra representing her essence.
Pull Quotes :
“The Devi had warned us, but not everyone understood what she was trying to say”
— A pilgrim from Jammu
“The goddess does not need language. When she wants to speak, the water answers.”
— Another devotee from devotee
“She waits for us. And we will always return.”
— An elderly Kashmiri Pandit woman at the shrine
